xx (DNS) / Volcán Chimborazo (20,571’)

10/17/25: Anytime I embark on a big mountain attempt (>17,000’), my daughter makes me a drawing. I always keep this in my pocket - it is a reminder that the summit is only the front door. I have a family to get back to and that is the most important objective. (And she fundamentally just thinks its awesome when she sees a pic of her drawing atop some high peak).

Pete, Denis and I made our attempt on Ecuador’s highest mountain late on the evening of October 16. Pete had unsuccessfully tried to summit 48 hours prior and had to turn away at around 20,000’ due to precarious snowpack. The high basecamp (~17,500’) was surprisingly comfortable, complete with an incredible chef. With 3 weeks of nearly non-stop precipitation, basecamp was a snowy wonderland.

After traversing El Castillo and enjoying a fun mixed climb to gain the ridge, we began the slow and steep ascent. After about 3.5 hours in deep snow and glacier, we approached the false summit at ~19,500’. As was the case earlier in the week, the avalanche risk was simply far too high at this level on the glacier. Denis and I started turned around, while Pete strapped on a ski for a much more adventurous (and quick!) descent.

While disappointing not to summit, it was a great few days on a stunning mountain with friends. Can’t wait to be back someday soon.