37 / Iliniza Sur (17,267’)

10/24/25: Feeling strong and acclimated, I wanted to fit in one final big objective before heading back to the USA. With Cayambe closed due to protest roadblocks and the snowpack on Chimborazo still sketchy, Rey and I headed out to Illiniza Sur.

This was a peak I had eyed longingly from Cotopaxi, Rumiñahui and Corazon for the past year. Illiniza Norte and Illiniza Sur rise side by side in Ecuador’s Avenue of the Volcanoes, yet they offer vastly different challenges. Illiniza Sur, cloaked in permanent snow and ice, demands technical skill and experience on steep, crevassed slopes. Illiniza Norte, on the other hand, is a non-glaciated peak suited to strong hikers and scramblers.

The early evening hike up to the refugio featured one of the most gorgeous backdrops I’ve had in Ecuador. Clear views toward Corazon and the coast. Gato at the refugio was a true host - delicious food and let me borrow his helmet (big mistake forgetting to pack that!).

We started our summit attempt at the cozy hour of 3:30AM - a real treat compared to most other mountains here. After 30 minutes on rock, we put on our crampons to begin some mixed climbing and ultimately 4 pitches of steep glacier to the summit ridge.

The views were awe-inspiring - Cotopaxi, Antisana, Chimborazo, Iliniza Norte, Sincholagua and others all glistening in the rising sun.