November 2009: Many roads, many possibilities. I’ve cycled from Bangkok to Phnom Penh, and then all over Southern, Eastern and Western Cambodia. But the North is terra incognita to me - “Where there be dragons” may as well be splashed across my tattered map.
The end objective is clear - Preah Vihear, an ancient Hindu temple perched dramatically on a cliff in Cambodia’s Dangrek Mountains, renowned for its stunning architecture, spiritual significance, and sweeping views over the plains below. It also happens to be a flashpoint for the Cambodian and Thai militaries at the moment, each periodically exchanging gunfire and artillery shells.
Sitting at a café, I sip coffee with my left hand and trace trails with my right. In my notepad, I review scribbled notes: “Rt. 211 – remote, mountainous, beautiful, impossible to navigate if rain. Rt. 212 S to Tbaeng Meanchey, safer alternative, add one day to itinerary.” A strong typhoon battered Northern Cambodia only a few weeks before and, just to up the ante, another one (albeit significantly smaller) was scheduled to hit later that evening.
I had already delayed departure by a day to see if the forecast would change, as well as nurse a nasty hangover from a night out with other ecotourism supporters in Kuala Lampur. Given my precious limited vacation time for extended trips, there was really only option. I fold up my map, pick up the tab, pack Johnny away in my pannier (because my mom said I am not allowed to do solo bikepacking trips), and take the long road north for the four day journey.
